Welcome back! Its been a long time since I have posted a blog, about two years, but I'm back. These newer post will be part of a series I'm calling time travel, since I'm going back to tell stories of the past two years. Before we start with Peru, I definitely recommend you book your activities before hand, especially if you intend on visiting Machu Picchu. The only way to get to Machu Picchu is by train, so you will have to coordinate your flight plans, with the train schedule to be able to reach Aguas Calientes, which is the town you will have to visit to enter the ancient site. So lets jump into is that you Peru?
Day 1
Day one is always the most boring part of traveling for me, because it usually just consists of getting to the destination. This day one will also drag into day two, as some of the travel was done over night. I work nights so I booked a 2:30 PM flight from my home base, Austin Texas, to Cusco Peru. First flight was quick and easy, 1 hour hop to Houston Texas. For the main portion of the trip, I was heading to Lima. From Houston to Lima is a six and a half hour flight, which I used to catch up on some sleep. I arrived in Lima at about 11PM, and my next flight to Cusco didn't leave until 4:45AM. So I decided to have my first meal and drink at the airport restaurant called Tanta. I looked over the menu and couldn't exactly figure out what I wanted to try. So the waiter helped me out and suggested the traditional Peruvian comfort food, aji de gallina, which is a chicken dish cooked with yellow peppers and various spices, and reminded me of curry. It was a great dish, accompanied with a small mound of rice and a boiled egg. The drink of choice, a pisco sour, which is a Peruvian brandy based drink, with a topping of light foam. After my meal I just wandered around the airport for a bit and played my 3DS, until my next flight to Cusco, which was a short hour and a half.
* Travel tip: Try to use a bank or authorized dealers for exchanging money when traveling abroad, some countries are known for giving tourists counterfeit money when shopping. When shopping, try to use exact change when possible.
Day 2
Finally arriving in Cusco at 6 AM, I had to get to Poroy train station in order to get to Aguas Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu. After previous research I thought it best to get an Uber to Puroy Station. You can opt to take local taxis, as there is no shortage of them waiting for you outside of the Cusco airport, and most can speak some English if your Spanish is not up to par, as mine typically is not, but I do know enough to get around safely. The drive from Cusco airport to the Poroy train station is about 30 minutes long. Long enough for you to realize the difference in road courtesy. Now I have no idea of the layout of this city but there are a ton of inclines, and dips throughout which made it seem like this was a roller coaster ride, and pretty exciting for speed demons. My driver was nice enough to take the scenic route so I could catch some of the sites along the way.
I arrived at Poroy Station at 7:15 AM, with plenty of time to relax a bit before boarding at 7:55 AM. You actually have two options in how to travel to Machu Picchu, both are by train. Inca Rail and Peru Rail, I chose Peru Rail, because it was suited for my time and had to most convenient way for me to travel with this being my first time in Peru. Peru Rail is also the oldest of the two, but they both have various package options depending on how you would like to travel, and on this trip I did not travel with Inca Rail. The Poroy train station was a nice size, and has a small cafe you can order food and drinks from. I opted for simple water and a basic pastry for breakfast, some of the staff does speak English, but they were surprised I was able to order in Spanish, but shy away from actual conversation, because that's where I need the most practice and my Spanish becomes trash :). The Poroy Station is also where I was introduced to the local dog population, not sure if they were strays or the stations dogs, but they lounge around and don't shy away from food offerings. I boarded the train at 7:55 AM, and took to my seat, ready for the adventure ahead. I had no issues with bags, which I carried a large duffel bag and a backpack, but to pack careful as there is a limit to the amount they can carry. They also offer lockers just in case you need to stash things before to leave the station. The travel time from Poroy Station to Aguas Calientes is about 3 hours, full of scenery for you to gaze upon in awe. You can also look up to see through the top of the train depending on which train you choose to buy a ticket for. The train will stop at points to allow other trains to pass by or just to give you information and tell stories about the surrounding areas, which I will not spoil just in case you have not visited, just check the photos below.
Arriving in Aguas Calientes at about 11am. Once I got off the train I gathered my belongings and headed to my hotel to drop my bags off. I chose to stay at the Golden Sunrise, in there presidential suite. The staff was very nice and allowed me to drop my bags off while I waited for my room to be cleaned. Once my room was ready I lounged around for a bit and then freshened up just in time to take a nap, apparently I was tired from traveling.
Once I woke up I decided to get dressed and explore a bit of the town and grab a bite to eat. Aguas Calientes is an extremely small town, but full of life once its cooler in the evenings. They have tons of shops, street food, bars, and live soccer games, if you can catch them. My first stop was to try some of the street food, simple carne y papas, or meat and potatoes. The beef was pretty good, but the potatoes were a little under cooked for my liking. Along the route I ran into more members of the canine wanderers and ended up giving it the rest of my food as he wouldn't stop following me. Next I made a pit stopped and watched a bit of a local soccer game in progress with the locals, then headed down to a restaurant called full house. Here they serve traditional Peruvian dishes, and stone oven pizzas, they will even let you help make one if you ask nicely and its a slow night. I'm all for trying different kinds of food especially when traveling abroad, so I had to go for a Peruvian specialty called cuy. Cuy translates to English as guinea pig. You can get a full guinea pig or the thighs, which is roasted with herbs and spices and served with a side of potatoes and with some sort of spicy sauce. To my surprise I actually really enjoyed it, the guinea pig was cooked perfectly with the blends of herb and spices. I also tried a portion of the alpaca, which tasted like a steak and was also fairly enjoyable. After stuffing my fave I decided to walk around a bit more and visit a few of the local shops to grab some souvenirs, including paintings by local artists and shot glasses. Typically roaming sells men and women will sell the exact same thing the stores do, and you can negotiate pricing with them if you so choose, but many will be firm with their pricing. After a bit of shopping I decided to head back to my room for some more rest, as h the next morning would be an early one and the trek up Machu Picchu.
Day 3
The ticket I purchased for Machu Picchu was the first group from 6am to 12pm, as the amount of visitors are limited per day. I also recommend buying your tickets to visit the ancient site early as well, because if you wait until you actually arrive they could be at the limit of allowed visitors. You have 3 options when buying your ticket for Machu Picchu, you can buy a ticket to visit the site Machu Picchu, the hike to Huayna Picchu behind the city itself, or the hike to Machu Picchu Mountain. These are tough hikes, and they take about one and a half to two hours each way for the two hikes, and the elevation of the Machu Picchu Mountain is just a little over 10,000 ft at 10,111 ft in elevation. So elevation sickness can occur and would be a drag on a limited vacation. A good way to avoid or alleviate elevation sickness is to take chlorophyll pills or liquid two weeks before traveling to Peru, this will help your blood cells take in more oxygen and help with breathing while in Peru. You can also just take it easy 24 hours before your hike to let your body acclimate to the elevation, as Cusco is 11,152 ft above sea level, and Machu Picchu site itself is 7,972 ft above sea level. Elevation sickness will typical start at around 8,000 ft. I also recommend bringing light pants or some sort of bug spray if you are visiting during the warmer seasons as the mosquitoes will obliterate you if unprotected like I was. So with those pointers in place lets get started on the journey to Machu Picchu.
Day 3 started early around 430 am, so I could gather my things and also stop by the local market to get water and snacks for the hike. You can choose to walk up to Machu Picchu or you can take the bus, I chose the bus, didn't want to tire myself out before I actually even made it to Machu Picchu. If you decide to walk, you definitely can, it is about an hour and a half trek to get to the gates of Machu Picchu, just stay to the closest side of the mountain as the same road is used to bus others to the entrance. Once arriving to the entrance you will have to check in, so make sure you bring your passport, ticket, and card you used to purchase a your ticket as the security will check to verify. For this trek I purchased a ticket for the Machu Picchu + Montana Mountain, which is nearest the Sun Gate, one of the viewpoints for Machu Picchu. You can also get a guide which I did not do to avoid groups and move at my own pace, but even if you don't you are walking on the same path as the group and can chime in on any of the story telling and no one would even notice. I continued on the trail from the main entrance until I arrived at the guard house, which overlooks Machu Picchu Citadel, and has an amazing view as well. You can also get plenty of opportunities to take pictures of or with the local llamas and alpacas. I don't recommend getting to close, as some of them get annoyed and may spit on you, others are very friendly and will pose with you.
After spending some time awe struck by the view I decided to visit the Inca Bridge which the trail is marked by small wooden signs to point you in the right direction. It is a bout a 20 to 30 minute hike, and is a bit rough, and in some places narrow. When I arrived there is a small hut that you must sign into and out of. The bridge itself is thought to be a back entrance into the citadel. The area around the bridge is blocked off to keep the site intact and free of unnatural damage. From the Inca Bridge I made my way back down to the guard house overlooking the citadel and went right to the trail that leads to Machu Picchu Mountain and the Sun Gate. This hike is about an hour to the Sun Gate, and the effects of the elevation, heat, and the stone trail began to take a toll on me about half way through. On the way to the Sun Gate there are certain areas you should be careful of, as it gets narrow to where it is safer to go one at a time and allow others to pass if coming from the opposite direction, some parts have ropes or rails to hold onto and others its a free fall if you happen to stumble. In one instance a kid was running down from the opposite direction and tripped and I actually managed to catch him by the arm to keep him from falling down and over the side of the cliff. Once at the Sun Gate you will see plenty of spaces to take photos or just take in the beautiful scenery. At this time it was already 11 am and I was getting close to the time I had to leave, so I opted out of going to the top of Machu Picchu Mountain and decided to head back down to go to the citadel instead, since I had skipped it on entry to use it for my exit instead. Just walking through the citadel and the other surrounding areas give you this since of accomplishment. I'm still amazed how so long ago, people built these structures so high up in the mountains, and walked these paths daily, definitely gave me a new found respect for Machu Picchu to experience it first hand.
Prior to leaving Machu Picchu I headed back to my hotel for a quick nap and to freshen up, as my train back to Cusco would leave at 530. I chose to grab on last bite in Aguas Calientes at a small restaurant called Samaq Grill. The wait staff was very friendly and recommended I try to alpaca steak, rice, veggies, and mashed potatoes. The alpaca steak was seasoned well and I was disappointed with the meal, although I didn't care for the mashed potatoes, as they had a liquid like consistency kind of like watery oatmeal. After boarding the train and taking my seat I was greeted by two ladies from London that were having a friends trip in Peru, they made the 2 and a half hour train ride breeze by. On this return trip back there was live entertainment including dance and a fashion show, which was really cool to see. Once back at the Poroy Station, around 9 PM, I ordered my uber to my hotel in Cusco called Andean Wings Boutique Hotel. This hotel caught my eye because of the different themes of each of its rooms. Once I checked in the staff had me wait at the bar area near the fireplace while they made me fresh tea to help alleviate the elevation sickness that would eventually catch up to me. After being escorted to my room the staff on site all showed up and brought me cake and sang happy birthday to me which was a really nice gesture. After eating dessert and freshening up it was time for dinner at the hotel restaurant, called Mandela's Restaurant, tapas, and bar. This time around I went with an appetizer called Tequenos Andinos, which are small wanton wrappers that are filled with cheese and onions deep fried and served with fresh guacamole. For the main course I ordered a dish called Lomo Saltado, which is strips of beef sautéed in fresh tomatoes, onions, and a beef sauce and served on top of rice potatoes and topped with a sunny side up egg. This was one of my favorite meals of my whole trip, everything worked perfect together and it was just an enjoyable meal. After dinner I went back to my room for a deep soak in the Jacuzzi and out for the night.
Day 4
Once I woke up I decided to head down to the restaurant for a quick breakfast. Upon arriving to the restaurant I was greeted by two ladies dressed in traditional Peruvian clothing and an alpaca named Martin. After talking with the women, purchasing some of their hand made items, and feeding Martin I sat down for breakfast, which included mini pancakes, eggs, fresh fruit, fresh juice, croissants, ham, and cheese I was stuffed and ready to explore and walk off the calories. My hotel was located in the city center so everything was fairly close or within a walking distance. Little did I know this would eventually be my down fall. I decided to walk to Plaza de Armas which is the central plaza in Cusco, where you will find the magnificent Cusco Cathedral. While wandering around after I went to the bank, I was greeted by a local that sold paintings, that stopped to talk to me because of my tattoos. After a quick chat and buying some of his paintings, he informed me he could show me around and also take me to his friends tattoo shop. Our first stop was on Hatunrumiyoc street , best known for the 12 angled stone, at the palace of the archbishop. This stone is very unique and shows the craftsmanship the Incans possessed so long ago. The pieces of stone fit together so perfectly and tight that it is said not even a piece of paper can fit between the pieces. If you do travel to this area and would like to take photos, do not touch the stone, if you forget you will be reminded harshly by locals. If you take a few steps back from the walk and look close enough you will also be able to make out animals made of stone that were placed in the wall, a condor, a snake, and a puma. Also if you look even closer you can see the difference in stone work from the bottom compared to the top after Cusco was invaded by the Spanish.
Once I was done marveling at the architecture my new found guide and I headed to the tattoo shop which wasn't quite opened but the owner said I could look through his books and come back when he was ready to open. So I decided to hop across the street to grab a bite to eat at Peru Bar. Here I settled in and ordered ceviche and a small plate that consisted of small slices of toasted bread with slices of beef and some kind of semi sweet sauce, all in all the meal was good and the staff was nice and helpful. After eating I headed back to the tatto shop which is called Cusco Ink. It is an extremely clean shop and astro speaks perfect English, and will help you get the right idea down. I wanted something to represent Incan culture so I decided to go with an Incan feline warrior with a trophy head. After getting a fresh new tattoo I decided to go around shopping for a Peru flag to add to my collection back home. There are several markets sprawled around Cusco, so I decided to just walk around to different areas, and do some exploring. The market I happened to stumble upon was the Saturday Baratillo, I believe baratillo refers to shops that sell cheap merchandise. Here you can literally find everything including clothes, food, electronics, and more. If you are looking to haggle prices on souvenirs this is definitely the place to do it, but beware, this is a high traffic area for counterfeit money trading, and if you are unaware of what to look for as I was you will get played. At the time I went the market was full of people, I was stopped a couple of times because some people were interested in my tattoos, or curious of where I was from and made for a good mingle with the locals and or tourists alike. I found a small store that had the large Peruvian flag I was looking for, and this is also the same place I later figured out gave me counterfeit money. This is also a good area to get some cheap food and freshly squeezed juice, with many vendors on the streets with small carts of goodies. While in the area I managed to try, fresh churros, quail eggs, freshly made pineapple juice, and pork rinds. After wandering around the market for a bit I decided to head back to the hotel and get some rest before my early flight at 5AM.
Day 5
Another early start as my flight left Cusco at 530 AM heading to Lima. Luckily the airport was only about 20 minutes away from my hotel so I had little time to procrastinate. A quick hour and a half flight from Cusco to Lima seemed to breeze by. After making it out of the airport I had a 40 minute Uber ride to my hotel in Mira Flores, which is the upscale shopping district of Lima. Once at the hotel I ate a quick breakfast eggs, sausage, toast, and orange juice. I honestly had no real plans for Lima, but I decided to visit the artsy district of Barranco, which was only about a ten minute drive. Barranco is a really cool area if you are into the arts, there are several murals spread out through the area. Make sure to make a stop near the bridge of sighs where you can find some great art. After walking around for a bit I made my way about 15 minutes north to Parque Husares de Junin, which is a local park where you can get some pretty nice views of the Pacific Ocean. For dinner I chose to walk over to LA73. I chose the lasana bolognesa, which was really good, probably my second favorite meal of the whole trip, and it was just a simple pasta dish, and for dessert churros with chocolate sauce. After stuffing my face I had enough for the day, so I called it a night and headed back to the hotel for some much needed rest.
To bring in 30 this way was an awesome experience, I knocked Machu Picchu off of my travel bucket list, and also had the chance to experience a few different cities in Peru. I left the country being more enlightened to a new culture and wonderful scenery, would definitely go back in the future to sight see places I missed or just didn't have time to see. Ill be posting links to various places that I visited, just in case you may be interested in visiting when you make a journey to Peru. :D
* Have you ever been to Peru, or wanted to travel there? Let me know some of your favorite spots, or where you would like to visit in the comment section below.
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